Vintage and retro are terms thrown around a lot in the world of fashion, but what exactly do they mean? And how do you set about buying it?
nzgirl has made it easy for you with a vintage buying guide that covers everything from sizes to the best places to buy.
What's vintage and why should I care? Vintage clothing is usually clothes that were made in the period between 1920 and around the 60s, with retro clothing falling from around the late 60s to the 80s and 90s. Vintage clothing is a great way to get something that is individual, brilliantly made and one of a kind for cheaper than a designer or specially made garment. Vintage pieces are often classically and beautifully made using cuts, fabrics and construction methods that are no longer used with the invention of modern technology and cost cutting measures. We are talking hand-finished seams, real pearl buttons and hand dyed silk here people!
When it comes to retro clothing again it’s all about finding an individual look – whether that be a 70s suede jacket or an 80s puff ball dress. Often these items are cheaper but still really one-of-a-kind pieces and can be worth just as much as vintage collector’s pieces.
Size matters The biggest pitfall when wanting to buy vintage clothing is sizing. However, a good vintage store will re-tag all the garments with their modern equivalent size. But if you are shopping at a second-hand store or the like, this won't be done for you. There are a couple of things to remember:
1: In vintage eras there was no such thing as stretch. While today’s clothing such as fitted dresses and suit pants usually contain a little elastane to give stretch and a snug fit, vintage clothing typically does not. As a result, things that “look” like they are your size may be in fact smaller than they appear.
2: Size labels are merely a suggestion. As a rule, vintage garments (especially those made around the 50s and 60s) can jump down one or two sizes. So a 50s size 10 is more like a modern size 8, a 12 like a 10 and so on. That said, it wasn’t until much later that women’s sizing became standardised, so often one company’s idea of a size 10 would be another’s size 14.
So as a rule always, always try on garments. Or take down your measurements along your bust line, across the shoulders, true waist and hips and write this down. This way if you are somewhere you can’t try on something (or shopping online) you will be sure of the fit.
Tips and Tricks When shopping for vintage it’s a good idea to thoroughly check everything out. The most important is the fabric itself – if there is pulling, tearing or wearing it may not be worth the effort. Think about the fact that you want something to look as new as possible so that you can get the most wear out of it. Check the inside seams for seam allowances (to allow things to be let in or out) and check the allowances on zips as well, just in case these need replacing.
Shop everywhere, not just vintage stores but in op-shops, garage sales and school fairs. Be prepared to go to a little extra effort and you will find treasures. If you are heading to a small town (or driving through), always stop. These are amazing places to find quality garments you couldn't find anywhere else. Keep an eye on TradeMe and other on-line auction sites. And if you can, befriend someone who works in an op-shop!
Era Break Down
1920s: The long and lean Silhouettes: Very straight and elongated with drop waists. Hemlines sit between knee and mid-calf or ankle. Design Trends: Micro pleating on skirts and shallow v-necks are common. Drop waists or no waists at all on simple tube shaped dresses with cap or long sleeves. Fabrics: For daywear we have light weight knits, georgette, linens and layered mattafied silks. For night there is silk or rayon acetated with beading or embroidered panels. Colours, Prints and Accents: Neutral tones for day but with jewel tones and pastels for evening wear. Beading and sequins were common as were dainty soft floral prints. Evening wear demonstrates excess with lace and feathers and even semi-precious jewels.
1930s: Graceful forms Silhouettes: Long and lean with more emphasis on the female form. As a result, hemlines were shorter (although rarely above the knee) and natural waists shown off with waist detailing. Floor length gowns for evening were popular. Design Trends: Bias cut clothing, dresses and nightgowns which skim some areas and hug in others. Two-piece feminine suits with box cut shapes on top and form fitting shapes below. Fabrics: Cotton and other natural fabrics (linen, wool etc), rayon and silk again were popular. Light to medium weights with heavy weight fabric used for structured suiting. Colours, Prints and Accents: Deeper more sombre hues such as greys and dark greens formed the basis of many looks with accents of brighter reds and blues appearing at times. Greens, jades and mossy tones were popular for day and night. Round buttons, puff sleeves and box pleat backed jackets all made appearances here.
1940s: New shapes Silhouettes: The era of the “new look”, this time period focused on cinched waists and emphasis on the hips and, for the first time ever, the chest as well. Shoulder pads created shape on the top while length was typically just above or on the knee. Design Trends: The now typical fitted jacket and suit look made its first appearance as well as button down dresses, round buttons and shoulder detailing. Bouffant dresses for night in lace and taffeta with tie back or asymmetric detailing were also popular. Fabrics: Natural fabrics such as acetate, nylon and rayon were used as well as thick wool blend for suiting. Colours, Prints and Accents: Bold floral prints made their first appearances for a while during this time period and colour was key with whites and neutrals accented with blues, reds and greens. Fine button detailing (pearl, rare shell etc.) was common.
1950s: Flirty and feminine Silhouettes: There was emphasis on the waist and hips - either through very cinched waists and full skirts or through cinched waists and pencil shaped skirts or pants. Curves were the call of the day. Design Trends: Two piece suits, dresses, cinched waists, corsets, pencil skirts, halter necks, tied necks and sweetheart shaped necklines. High waists and floor length prom gown dresses were common and day dresses were a key feature of this era. Fabrics: Natural fabrics such as nylon, acetate, rayon, spandex, acrylic and cashmere. For evening, silk, satin and taffeta were common. Colours, Prints and Accents: Flutter hems, ruffles and large buttons were used for detailing. Neutral tones were used for day, while bright tones were used at night and for accenting day wear. Layering with chiffon and net fabrics both over and under silks and satins was used. Also popular were circle skirts and sequinned detail sweaters.
1960s: A mod thing Silhouettes: A-line and shift dresses are key during this time, as were rising hemlines. The mini arrived and was very popular. Boxy shapes and simple tube sheaths were abundant. Design Trends: Dress and coat sets (think Jackie O) replaced the skirt jacket set as a staple wardrobe item. Boxy jacket shapes, minis and sheath dresses were mixed with more vibrantly toned fabrics. Fabrics: Fabrics included both naturals and nearly all modern fabrics. Polyester blends were very popular during this time and dresses were made with light to medium weight fabrics for the day and medium to heavy for evening wear. Colours, Prints and Accents: Blues, pinks, whites, purples – all these colours peppered designer’s collections along with geometric prints. Simple embroidery was a common feature on relaxed day dresses while evening looks often had detailed sequins and beading. Black and white (a la mod) were also key colours.
1970s: Mix it up Silhouettes: These were varied as some sheath and a-line shapes remained from the 60s but other shapes such as long free flowing dresses, empire waists and pinafore shapes were also worn. Large over-sized sleeves and proportion play was just coming into focus. Design Trends: High waists, slim fitting denim and mixtures of sheer floaty fabric and suiting fabrics were key 70s trends. Long dresses for day became popular as did one piece dresses and play suits. T-shirts for the first time were key fashion items. Fabrics: Fabrics included naturals and nearly all modern fabrics such as light weight cottons, chiffons and denim. Colours, Prints and Accents: Paisley, flower designs and large psychedelic prints were all popular. Tie dye, corn flower motifs and “hippie-ish” rope and ribbon ties were also key.
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what exactly do they mean? And how do you set about buying it? 
Silhouettes: Very straight and elongated with drop waists. Hemlines sit between knee and mid-calf or ankle.
Silhouettes: Long and lean with more emphasis on the female form. As a result, hemlines were shorter (although rarely above the knee) and natural waists shown off with waist detailing. Floor length gowns for evening were popular. 
Silhouettes: The era of the “new look”, this time period focused on cinched waists and emphasis on the hips and, for the first time ever, the chest as well. Shoulder pads created shape on the top while length was typically just above or on the knee. 
Silhouettes: There was emphasis on the waist and hips - either through very cinched waists and full skirts or through cinched waists and pencil shaped skirts or pants. Curves were the call of the day. 
Silhouettes: A-line and shift dresses are key during this time, as were rising hemlines. The mini arrived and was very popular. Boxy shapes and simple tube sheaths were abundant. 
970s: Mix it up